The Brit and I made the trek through that nasty snowstorm to VT on Friday, Mutt curled up in his lambswool-lined bed in the backseat.
It was cold. It was nasty. It was treacherous driving all the way up 91… but we were determined. And we made it, arriving in Woodstock, VT at about 1pm, just in time for lunch and some gallery-scouting prior to check in at the Inn at Clearwater Pond.
We ate a non-descript meal at Bentley’s downtown, which was satisfying only because of the fact we were both running low of both blood sugar AND patience. I’d heard decent things about the place… but looking back, they were from the same colleagues I regularly hear regale us with reviews from TGI Fridays and Applebee’s… so there you have it. Overall, Bentley’s was serviceable… but it felt dusty and old. My cup of poorly seasoned clam chowder came sitting ON the same plate as my salad… wilting it and sort of disappointing me from the start. The Brit’s burger was “fine.” Our verdict: miss it if you have another choice.
So we got back in the trusty ride and headed to the Inn, and were greeted warmly by Tina, the Innkeeper, who could NOT have been nicer. She showed us to our “home” for the weekend — “Christina’s Cottage.” A guest house of sorts on the property, it was utterly charming, very private and welcoming to all of us — including our furry family member.
Inside Christina’s Cottage was the tallest bed I’d ever slept in, which I failed to take a picture of while it was made up to perfection. Piled high with pillows and requiring little step stools to climb in, I felt like Princess and the Pea…
The little cottage was amply warmed by a little stove, which ran on propane; and it’s warm glow bouncing off the rough hewn beam ceilings and pale yellow walls made me want to curl up and just stay inside the whole time.
But I couldn’t — because there was THIS waiting outside for us:
We played around with Mutt in the snow for a bit, relaxed with our books, then headed at Tina’s recommendation to The Barnard Inn’s tavern. What a great spot! We sat at the bar and ordered off a menu that was surprisingly sophisticated considering we were welcomed wearing jeans, sweaters and winter boots. We started with some of the house-made focaccia and chili oil for dipping. The Brit had smoky split pea soup and rack of lamb with a cabernet sauce, piled atop lovely roasted potatoes… I sampled of course only for the purposes of being able to vouch for his meal on this blog. Ahem. And I had a delicious cream of asparagus soup with lemon creme fraiche to start, and an oven roasted haddock with a lemon caper butter sauce served on fluffy mashed potatoes. If you do go to VT, head to this tavern… sit at the bar for a really casual but incredibly delicious and beautiful meal.
We returned to the cottage, driving along pitch black VT backroads lit by nothing but the moon reflecting on the snow. That may sound like an odd thing to appreciate; but here in Hoboken, as in many urban areas, we never really experience moonlight… we live under the artifical glow of streetlamps!
I opted to take a warm bath in the old claw foot tub the cottage offered; while the Brit set up the scrabble board. We settled into the big leather chairs in our PJs and played until I could no longer see the letters through my droppy eyelids… and then I crawled up that little step stool into that huge four-poster and slept as I haven’t in a long time.
Saturday brought a nice sunny day, and an incredible breakfast from our hostess… fresh fruit, coffee, and french toast stuffed with citrus peel and cream cheese. And of course– REAL VT maple syrup. We talked a bit with Tina about the B&B business… The Brit and I always say we’d like to open one some day, but I think I say that without any real appreciation for all the behind the scenes work. She’s just opened this place, and agreed that it is far more work than most think. We chuckled at some of her stories, and admired the main house — the better portion of which was built in the 1800s.
We played in the snow with Mutt for a bit, then set out to town and shopped. Then it was off to meet up with our friends (who also happened to be near town that weekend) to go to the Longtrail Brewery. I enjoyed the wheat beer, and took a sip of the Imperial Stout that The Brit and The German (my friend’s husband) were sampling. We took a self-guided tour that smelled foul but was interesting nonetheless, and talked a bit about home brewing, which The German enjoys. God, please do not let The Brit be inspired.
After saying our so-longs, The Brit and I took a drive up Route 100, which was scenic and relaxing… and then headed to Simon Pearce to shop and look in on the glassblowing in progress. Wow. It was truly amazing to watch these two artisans at work… and The Brit remarked how it was so cool to see these two work together so seamlessly… just as one was finished with the stem of the bowl, the other was there with a molten piece on his pole to touch to it to finish the body. Just as that was done, there he was with the blade to sever it… and then he gingerly walked to the finishing oven. We stood there in awe for a long time — just sort of mesmerized by the process — and then (and only then) did I begin to understand why the vase I wanted was $265!
We relaxed that afternoon, alternating playing the snow and coming in to warm up… and then headed to dinner at the Parker House Inn. The food was fine, but because we were in the main dining room, the atmosphere a little stuffy for our mood. We both remarked we’d rather have gone back to the Barnard! Nonetheless, it was a good meal… just a bit elegant in an otherwise VERY casual weekend. In fairness, there was a private party in the pub section of the Inn, and it is possible that the atmosphere there would have been more up our alley; and as such, my review would be more glowing.
And so… after another very deep and luxurious sleep, we packed up bright and early this morning. And Mutt said goodbye to Christina’s Cottage:
Could you DIE?! He looks so sad to be leaving. Poor Mutt.
The drive home was uneventful, leaving me only with a suitcase of laundry to do tonight in between blog posts and some take out.
So — in summary:
Bentley’s in Woodstock: Skip it.
Downtown Woodstock in general: Cute… neat galleries… overpriced antiques.
Inn at Clearwater Pond and Christina’s Cottage in particular: MUST stay… we will be back during foliage for sure!
Barnard Inn’s Tavern: hugely and heartily recommended!
Long Trail Brewery: Yummy and interesting; stinky, but good.
Simon Pearce: Come for the glassblowing… hide your credit card.
Parker House Inn: good food, stuffy atmosphere.
Taking a weekend to just get cozy and “comewhatmay” with The Brit and Mutt: 100% worthwhile and enjoyable… woot-woot for weekends away!!!
I loved reading this post! We are planning a trip to Barnard in a few weeks and I have been scouring the internet trying to find somewhere good to eat while we are there, whew we’ll go to The Barnard Inn, for sure. Thanks!!!